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At the end of April 1971 the
wee Scalpay car ferry SCALPAY – the former Ballachulish ferry MAID OF GLENCOE
– arrived at Shandon on the Gareloch for annual overhaul, after being relieved
on her Harris station by the 1957 turntable ferry LOCHALSH II, specially
chartered from the CSP. It rapidly emerged that the timber-hulled SCALPAY “was
in a very poor state mechanically and structurally, and it was decided that her
condition was such that it would not be worth the cost of overhauling her. She
is still lying at Shandon,” continues the West Highland Club Newsletter of
September 1971, “and it seems likely that she will meet the same fate as the
LOCHBUIE and the LOCH AILORT i.e. go up in flames and smoke!
“The SCALPAY's place has
been taken up by this former Skye ferry and as a result of her greater capacity
traffic has shown a considerable increase on this route. She has recently shown
a slight tendency to break down but she is due for overhaul on the Clyde in
November when she will be relieved by the Glenelg ferry GLENMALLIE.”
LOCHALSH II (whose earlier
history is profiled earlier on this CalMac fleet-list – was built as LOCHALSH
by Ailsa of Troon early in 1957, replacing an earlier vessel of that name; after
thirteen years of solid service she had been renamed LOCHALSH II to free the
cognomen for one of the new double-enders being constructed for Kyleakin
service. She now proved a popular ship on the Scalpay station; though
“remote”, by mainland standards, and reached only by a truly awful road from
Tarbert in Harris, Scalpay was (and remains) a densely populated and very
wealthy island, with enterprising people and a vigorous fishing economy. The
people of Scalpay enjoyed high living standards and car ownership was far higher
than the Hebridean average of the day. With capacity for six cars (the old
SCALPAY could only take four) and a comfortable, spacious saloon for
schoolchildren and other foot-passengers, it came as little surprise when it
emerged that LOCHALSH II was to be permanently transferred to David MacBrayne
Ltd and the Scalpay station.
In fact it was the middle of
October 1971 when the GLENMALLIE (built in 1959 and a younger if larger version
of MAID OF GLENCOE) arrived at Scalpay and LOCHALSH II was free to sail to her
birthplace at Troon for a major refit. As well as thorough overhaul of her
engine, and the painting of her vehicle deck in MacBrayne green, her ramps were
remodelled with angled ends – the slipways at Scalpay and Kyles Scalpay were
both a little steeper and significantly narrower than the side-loading berths at
Kyleakin. The work completed, MacBraynes formally purchased the craft from the
CSP and she was re-named SCALPAY, her predecessor having been de-registered –
though left to decompose as a Shandon pontoon, rather than melt with fervent
heat.
(Why GLENMALLIE had been
summoned to relieve her is an interesting question; the 1960 KYLEAKIN had served
at Scalpay only the previous year and, renamed KYLEAKIN II, might readily have
been chartered in turn from the CSP. Perhaps there was significant cost (though
Kyleakin was nearer than GLENMALLIE's base on Kylerhea) or perhaps, with the
double-enders having had an uncertain start at Skye, the CSP were reluctant to
send another of their back-up ferries north.
The following summer, of
course, KYLEAKIN II was rebuilt as a bowloading ferry and assigned to the
Largs-Cumbrae Slip station, leaving her one-time Skye stable-mate as the last
turntable ferry in the combined fleet. Because of the special terms of the
Scalpay ferry – the STG paid only for insurance, overheads and ship
depreciation, while its operators, the MacSween family, paid the running costs
but kept all the revenue; a pattern later duplicated at Raasay – the SCALPAY
was not transferred to Caledonian MacBrayne Holdings Ltd. in 1973. She thus
became the last car ferry in the ownership of David MacBrayne Ltd. and was still
on its books when she was sold.
For over five years SCALPAY
rendered yeoman and generally reliable service at the Scalpay station. From
January 1974 she began offering an extra Friday evening crossing if required.
She would repair to Stornoway each October for overhaul – with GLENMALLIE
chugging north on charter in her stead – and only had minor breakdowns; for
two days in mid-August 1973; for a few more days at the end of September 1974
and more seriously from year's end to 9th January 1975, when one
engine failed entirely and for a time she had to operate on one unit and in calm
conditions only. That same month the cargo-boat LOCH CARRON dropped off an
unnamed motor-launch at the Scalpay jetty, to be used as a tender or very
limited extra passenger capacity; this craft had been lying unused at CalMac's
Gourock terminal. With the advent of the now-loaders it was left to decay by the
Scalpay slip, but survived on the shore until 1997.
Her turntable itself – being
entirely of steel construction and very heavy; her predecessor at Scalpay had a
timber vehicle-deck – was apt to seize and, with scant regard for prudence,
her crew frequently resorted to chucking a bucket or two of seawater into its
bearings to loosen things up! (Turntable ferries did require heavy maintenance
in this regard.) SCALPAY's other disadvantages included the increasing
difficulty of securing spares for her Gleniffer engines and the provblem of
supplying the bottles of compressed air necessary to start them. (It was kept in
a large red gas-cylinder atop her passenger saloon, hard by her starboard
steering-position, and can be be clearly seen in photographs.) Compressed air
had been easily obtained on the Kyleakin station, right on the end of the
Inverness-Kyle railway; it was much more difficult to lay hands on it in the
Western Isles of an emergency. (The late Angus 'Umag' MacSween, last of the
original Scalpay ferry crew and the only man to serve on all six vessels
stationed there, told me the greatest blessing of the “Small Island Class”
ferries was their push-button electric start. It was Angus who took the RHUM on
her final crossing in December 1997 when the Scalpay bridge finally opened to
traffic; but he always referred to the second SCALPAY as “the LOCHALSH.”)
As the last
turntable ferry in the fleet, though, Scalpay's car ferry service could seem
very vulnerable amidst such incidents; and all the more vulnerable when press
reports late in 1975 suggested the Glenelg-Kylerhea service might close, with
the according disposal of GLENMALLIE, the most convenient vessel for charter. In
November 1974 the STG had made overtures to Inverness County Council, seeking
subsidy of the Scalpay service and remodelling of the slipways (in which case
BRUERNISH or a sister bowloader could assume the station.) The County, though,
would not entertain this.
CalMac continued to press in
1975 for conversion of the Scalpay run to endloading and were countered by a
bright idea from the ranks of the newly formed Comhairle nan Eilean (Western
Isles Islands Council, late in September; might the local authority not acquire
the three 6-car turntable ferries about to be made redundant by the opening of
the Ballachulish bridge? One could be kept as back-up vessel for Scalpay and the
Comhairle would investigate the suitability of the others for service to Eriskay,
Berneray or Vatersay.
Unfortunately nothing seems to
have come of this; GLEN DUROR (1961) and GLEN LOY (1964) all passed with their
1969 Troon-built sister GLENACHULISH to Highland Regional Council when the
Ballachulish bridge opened that Christmas, but only the GLENACHULISH saw further
service, surviving at Kylerhea to this day and the last turntable ferry in
operation. In the absence of a locally based relief, SCALPAY was doomed and in
the autumn of 1976 the Council did at last reach agreement with Caledonian
MacBrayne. Work began on a temporary slipway at Tarbert – about fifteen to
twenty minute's sail from Scalpay – as reconstruction of the Kyles slip would
close that tiny port entirely for the time being. Another temporary slip was
laid by the existing terminal at Scalpay, there being more room in that cove –
Port na Geiltean - and easier access to the road.
Accordingly the Company's last
turntable ferry was not overhauled in October 1975 and a three-month extension
was obtained on SCALPAY's passenger certificate. She gave her last Scalpay-Kyles
Scalpay sailings on 12th January 1977 and that day the MORVERN
arrived from Greenock (via Crinan, Oban, Mallaig and Portree) to replace her.
SCALPAY was then beached in a remote bay on Scalpay's South Harbour – high and
dry at low tide – to await her fate.
But she was not quite done
yet; in early July SCALPAY was granted the kiss of life, and born on the 7th
to Stornoway for DTI survey and a rush overhaul. She was again to be chartered,
this time by Highland Regional Council for the Corran ferry service across the
narrows of Loch Linnhe, about nine miles south of Fort William. The GLENN MHOR
of 1964 – herself a six-car turntable ferry – was at Crinan for prolonged
repairs and her 1974 consort LOCHABER, even with her 9-car capacity, could not
cope alone with peak traffic.
SCALPAY duly operated from 14th
July on the five-minute passage from Onich to Ardgour, but was disabled by her old
friend – turntable breakdown – on the 16th, Glasgow Fair
Saturday, with lengthy queues amassing on the Onich side as a result. Repairs
were effected and, though definitely ailing and looking very forlorn and rusted
after so long without a proper overhaul, she managed to help out at peak periods
until. GLEANN MHOR at last returned in the first week of August. “However, “
the WHSC newsletter records, “she celebrated her return by promptly breaking
down, son the SCALPAY was called into service again but equally promptly 'came
out' in sympathy. With one engine out of action, the EIGG was sent to tow her
from Ardgour to Lochaline on Sunday 7th August. There she was moored
at the buoy in Miodar Bay alongside the MORVERN.” (The latter had only seen a
few months on the Scalpay station before being succeeded permanent by the
KILBRANNAN, a matter of happenstance rather than calculated policy.)
SCALPAY never saw service
again and the guilty engine was never fixed. She lay at Lochaline until May 1978
and was then towed to Crinan, managing through the canal on one engine before
being towed on to Shandon, where she eked out her last days for the Company as
an increasingly derelict craft, useful only as a source of spares for the LARGS.
In November 1979 she was sold for just £200 to the Ardmaleish Boat Building Co.
of Bute, and was towed to her new owners' yard before being berthed inside
Rothesay harbour. (As they usually overhauled LARGS, it no doubt saved them the
trouble of driving dozens of miles for a Gleniffer nut.)
The Company's last turntable
ferry, stripped of her vehicle deck and steering-positions, ended her days as a
barge on the Ayrshire coast, being employed first in Ardrossan harbour (with the
dredger HOLLAND V) and later at Troon and Ayr. She was photographed at Ayr
Harbour by Colin J. Smith in 1988, and it is just possible the hulk still
survives somewhere along that coastline. |