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“The daily routine commences by heating the oil
in the burner to 210 degrees F.; at this stage the auxiliary stop valve is
opened, and this in turn operates the various pumps and generators.
“Steam is raised to 120 lbs per square inch and
approximately one hour before the first departure of the day the main steam
valve is opened, steam is passed evenly through the system and the engines are
turned over slowly to allow them to heat in order that full power will be
available by sailing time.
“The long connecting rods from the pistons turn
the crankshaft at 35 revolutions per minute to maintain a service speed of
twelve knots.
“If you look through the portholes on either
alleyway where the crankshaft goes through the hull-casing to reach the paddles
you can watch the paddles themselves driving the steamer through the water.
“At the forward end of the engine-room alleyways
are the entrance doors to the restaurant. Reservations for meals should be made
in advance at the purser's office. If you do have a meal on board you will be
able to relax in comfortable surroundings and not miss any of the scenery while
you eat. Have a close look at the beautiful silver cutlery on the tables. Here
can be seen the history of the Clyde and Loch Lomond steamers representing the
various railway companies which once owned the steamers.”
On her trials - Monday 4th May, 1953 -
MAID OF THE LOCH attained a top speed of 13 ¾ knots. Her service speed was, of
course, only twelve knots. She was named on Friday 22nd May by Lady
Watson, wife of a member of the Railway Executive. The new steamer then bore
guests and officials to Ardlui at the head of Loch Lomond.
She entered public service the following Monday
– the Queen's Birthday Holiday – under the command of Captain Donald
MacDonald, formerly master of the PRINCE EDWARD; it was the 11.25 sailing out of
Balloch, calling at Balmaha, Rowardennan, Tarbet, Inversnaid and Ardlui. The
following month, MAID OF THE LOCH enjoyed the first of several royal guests –
Queen Salote of Tonga, a large and jolly soul who had entranced London crowds at
the Coronation on 2nd June. (“Who is that little man in the Queen
of Tonga's carriage?” one onlooker unwisely asked Noel Coward. “Her
lunch!”)
There would be more royal patronage in future; The
Queen twice sailed on MAID OF THE LOCH, in 1965 and 1971, in the respective
company of The Duke of Edinburgh and The Princess Anne.
PRINCESS MAY, still in her old BTC livery, was
broken up on the Loch Lomond slipway that summer, soon after MAID OF THE LOCH
entered service. PRINCE EDWARD was retained meantime and did not escape the new
colour-scheme, though the top of her funnel was repainted black after much
smoke-staining. She maintained a programme of secondary runs; and plans were
laid for her modernisation – conversion to oil-burning; plating up to her bow
– but it soon became apparent that Loch Lomond passenger traffic could not
justify her retention. After just two seasons as second fiddle to MAID OF THE
LOCH, PRINCE EDWARD was withdrawn from service; she was scrapped in the spring
of 1955.
The hope was that the handsome MAID OF THE
LOCH, in all her spacious elegance, would recover much of the massive war-time
market. For the 1955 season the Loch Lomond schedule was recast for one vessel's
capabilities and MAID OF THE LOCH now made a morning and afternoon cruise from
Balloch calling at all piers. “On Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays,”
records Robert Cleary, “passengers could leave the steamer at Tarbet and walk
over to Loch Long to join the Clyde paddlesteamer WAVERLEY (MAID-class
motor-vessel on Saturdays) thus making a circular excursion known as the Three
Lochs Tour, incorporating Loch Lomond, Loch Long and Loch Goil. Passengers could
also partake of rail/steamer tours involving the West Highland trains at
Arrochar and Tarbet or Ardlui. A third variety of excursion took in Loch Katrine
and the Trossachs in addition to a sail in Loch Lomond. As every one of these
tours could be made in either direction the “Maid” benefited from the
traffic flow in both directions...”
But the world had changed and, in a Britain where
“most of you have never had it so good”, the increasing availability of
cheap air-travel and the Spanish holiday package-tour was revolutionising
British vacation habits. MAID OF THE LOCH never fulfilled the original BTC hopes
of profitable Loch Lomond cruising. Indeed, she began slowly but steadily to
accumulate a horrifying deficit.
There were also direct circumstances beyond her
control. At the end of the 1963 season, for instance, Ardlui pier was closed. It
was in an advanced state of disrepair and the owner – proprietor of the
adjacent Ardlui Hotel – did not have the resources for its reconstruction. As
a result, from 1964 the MAID OF THE LOCH could merely cruise to the head of the
loch, without a call at Ardlui, and this only reduced passenger numbers further
– no dropping-off point now for those making a circular tour by rai, Ardlui
being a station of the West Highland Line.
More pier closures remorselessly followed; Balmaha
in 1971; Tarbet in 1975. But the fundamental economic difficulty was that she
was simply too large and her costs of operation were not matched by income from
the traffic now offering.
Most of MAID OF THE LOCH's sailing career was, in
fact, a veritable battle to evade the axe and by the time of Dr Beeching's
infamous recommendations for wholesale railway closures, in 1963, the MAID could
be sneering dismissed as a “white elephant.” “Certainly she is an
economist's nightmare,” Iain McCrorie could write in the still more fraught
climate of 1977, “and her story since the early Sixties has been none other
than a fight for survival.”
Yet she was spared by Dr Beeching; almost as
important, so was her “Blue Train” suburban railway link to Glasgow, which
terminated right at Balloch Pier. MAID OF THE LOCH was also granted gifted and
resourceful CSP management – British Railways had in 1957 allowed the old
Caledonian Steam Packet Co. Ltd.'s name to revive, managing all Clyde and Loch
Lomond passenger services as well as the Kyleakin ferry – and urgent action
was rather galvanised by her deficit at the end of the 1961 season - £63,000.
For the 1962 season her working day was lengthened
and evening cruises were laid on to attract more passengers. A public outcry
against Beeching's threat to Loch Lomond sailings duly ensured MAID OF THE
LOCH's survival in 1963 and for 1965 – shaken by the impact of the lost Ardlui
call in the 1964 season – the CSP authorised a massive publicity campaign.
There were also gimmicks that would rather raise
eyebrows today; comely (indeed, leggy) young girls were hired as “Loch Lomond
Hostesses” for excursions that summer, and evening “Showboat” cruises,
with live on-board entertainment, were promoted on Monday and Wednesday
evenings. Nevertheless they were good ideas and their effectiveness was beyond
dispute – passenger carryings improved by 65%.
Yet the early Seventies brought still more
retrenchment – and a bizarre change in ownership. The Scottish Transport Group
assumed control f all CSP and David MacBrayne Ltd vessels in 1969; the Group
also took over all nationalised Scottish bus operations and – for obscuire
accounting and administrative reasons – legal ownership of MAID OF THE LOCH
was transferred to W Alexander & Sons (Midland Ltd). The logic of entrusting
a West Highland paddlesteamer to a Falkuerjk-based diesel bus operator was not
immediately apparent; the CSP, of course, continued to manage the vessel.
It was late in 1970, though, before the CSP
general manager, John Whittle, noticed the British Railways emblem still
resplendent on the Loch Lomond paddler;'s bows and ordered its removal
forthwith.
But the Three Lochs Tour had to be cut to two days
per week after the 1970 season – it ended completely when Arrochar Pier closed
in 1972 – and the loss of Balmaha Pier was another blow. The “Showboat”
cruises had rather lost their impact and from 1971 they were offered on
Wednesdays only.
It was a fitting background of doom and gloom for
the MAID's first serious mishap; on Saturday 12th May 1973 she ran
aground while undertaking a charter sailing near Luss. It took several hours
before she was successfully refloated , with the aid of assorted
pleasure-launches which sped to her rescue from Balloch. The advent of the
“Cameron Wildlife Park” - it opened near Balloch that summer, though it held
nothing more sensational than a few lugubrious brown bears – helped somewhat;
it brought folk to the lochside where the MAID herself was her own advert.
If MAID OF THE LOCH hit an absolute low in her
active sailing career, it was in 1974, Despite costly boiler repairs in April,
she was struck and struck again by mechanical trouble, being forced repeatedly
out of service and finally to premature retirement on Saturday 24th
August, three weeks before her advertised timetable actually expired; she had
grounded momentarily, near Balloch, late in July and this was afterwards
reckoned to have dislodged sediment in the base of her fuel tanks, with unhappy
consequences for her combustion and thus her steam pressure.
Passenger carriage for 1974 hit an all-time base
of 89,000. Another factor, undoubtedly, was competition; Loch Lomond Sailings
Ltd of Balloch had begun touting for cruising business that summer, with two big
purpose-built motor launches.
Yet her managers refused to give up. That winter,
the Company (now, of course, Caledonian MacBrayne Ltd) engaged a team of
consultants to advise on all their cruising operations and this proved another
lifeline for MAID OF THE LOCH, whose promotion was now entrusted to Mr Norman
Wright.
On his recommendation there was considerable new
investment, both on the paddler's engines and steam-plant, and her internal
accommodation. She emerged for the 1975 season both with a new look – red
funnel with black top – and machinery that was now entirely reliable and
remaind so for the rest of her active career.
There were also thoughtful changes to her
facilities. The old, traditional long tables in her cafeteria were replaced with
modern, smaller units and a new, much less wop-wop public address system was
installed. She was also the last CalMac steamer with a traditional
waiter-service dining room – at least, one in regular use, which the
“Queen's Restaurant” on QUEEN MARY II seldom was – and that was an
attraction CalMac sensibly advertised.
Her timetable was entirely rejigged; the long
cruise to the head of Loch Lomond was withdrawn – this saved on fuel costs –
and two shorter cruises were laid on for weekend afternoons, with an attractive
fare-package for young families. All this certainly improved carryings –
126,000 passengers boarded the steamer in 1975, despite the closure of Tarbet
Pier.
Her original buff funnel was restored for 1976 as
the red style was judged a disappointment (it would have looked better with a
deeper black top, as she enjoys now.) And the head of the loch cruise was
reinstated to her timetable for Tuesday and Thursday afternoons, with extra
calls at Rowardennan from Monday through to Friday. In addition her deck bar was
refurbished with modern banquette seating and low tables. The head of the loch
excursion did not survive in the 1977 timetable – fuel prices were rapidly
spiralling – and the short weekend cruises were cut; but MAID OF LOCH was
fitted with VJF ship-to-shore radio on 15th July in compliance with
new safety requirements.
She celebrated her Silver Jubilee on Saturday 18th
June 1978; a special cruise was laid on for invited guests and 800 passengers
– each passenger received a piece of birthday cake; each child a stick of
rock! - and, the previous week, a plaque was donated by the Paddle Steamer
Preservation Society to mark her 25 years in service. MAID OF THE LOCH was now
minus a mainmast; found to be rotten, it was removed before that season's
excursion programme began. (“Loch Lomond Mast Rot” is, in fact, an historic
hazard of steamer services here and is found nowhere else.)
MAID OF THE LOCH now enjoyed thoroughly reliable
propulsion and, from 1976, generous grants by Strathclyde Regional Council;
usually in excess of £60,000 a year. 1978 brought further good news from
assorted local authorities and the Scottish Tourist Board; it was announced
that, through a five-year programme, £500,000 was to be spent in reinstating or
repairing piers at Rowardennan, Luss, Tarbet and Inversnaid. In addition there
was to be a regular grant for running the steamer.
So it was that at last MAID OF THE LOCH would be
able to call at Luss, though the new pier was not ready in time for a visit in
1979. That was another trouble-free season, with helpful innovations: a
“Freedom of Loch Lomond” weekly ticket, and a round-trip by bus for
passengers from Inversnaid to Stronaclachar and the pleasures of a cruise, by
the tough old SIR WALTER SCOTT (1900) on Loch Katrine.
MAID OF THE LOCH duly paid her honours with
successful berthing trials at the new Luss Pier on Thursday 15th May
1980, followed by a special cruise. (The confectionery doled out on this
occasion is not recorded.) The afternoon of Monday 9th June, however,
brought calamity; sailing from Balloch via Luss to Inversnaid, MAID OF THE LOCH
ran aground from a sandbank, some 25 yards from shore, immediately after leaving
Luss Pier. Again a flotilla of launches and speedboats came to the rescue,
though one 89-year old passenger spent another four hours on board – and even
enjoyed a complimentary high tea – before finally being persuaded to entrust
herself to a tiny rescue-craft. MAID OF THE LOCH was finally refloated seven
hours after first grounding. It had been an exceptionally dry summer and the
loch was more than two feet below its normal level for the time of year.
It seems that it was around this time that CalMac
made the decision that, somehow, they must divest themselves of the “white
elephant” and the entire Loch Lomond operation. Certainly in 1980 they carried
only 95,000 passengers, though to describe this as a “disaster”, as CalMac
did, was a little lower the top, and to argue that they had “lost” 31,000
passengers over five years was not entirely candid; it could be be argued (as
Alan Brown does) and with equal fairness that MAID OF THE LOCH had gained
6,000 pasengers since 1974.
Alan Brown goes on to outline the considerable
investment in Clyde and Loch Lomond cruising facilities from local authorities
and other agencies between 1975 to 1980 – to the tune of some - £457,000 –
and to suggest that Caledonian MacBrayne Ltd somehow and dishonourably failed to
keep their side of the bargain. A fair case for the prosecution can be made; but
the fact remains that in her last active season – 1981 – and with all the
subsidies and grants made available – MAID OF THE LOCH still lost some £73,450;
the Company is not a charitable concern, and the primary obligation of this
state-owned body is to maintain important links in public transport and
essential, lifeline services to many Scottish islands.
It should be borne in mind to that this 1979-1982
period marked perhaps the nadir of CalMac fortune; the public spending crisis
and jobsworth management saw such humiliations as, for instance, major units
like HEBRIDES and SUILVEN enduring the de-rating of their engines (to cut speed
and save fuel.) The Company could not even be bothered to issue the usual
colourful brochure for the 1980 season – the bare timetable leaflets were
issued instead, of vaguely Eastern European appearance – and, incredibly, no
drive-through ferry had been laid down for the STG since IONA in 1969.
A number of sailings and calls had to be abandoned
in the course of that last 1981 season, partly due to adverse weather and
considerable pier damage at Rowardennan. After the last big push for 1975, too,
a culture of slack and could-care-less seemed to have overcome MAID OF THE LOCH
and her crew. Brasswork was painted over, rather than polished; paddlebox detail
was not maintained, and weeds flourished in the wheelhouse flowerbox.
The Company had already abandoned Clyde cruising
after the 1980 season – GLEN SANNOX, not surprisingly, had failed to retain
QUEEN MARY's business; and Strathclyde Regional Council now directed their
entire cruising subsidy (£100,000 in 1981) was solely for the Loch Lomond
operation. Nevertheless the “white elephant” closed her season on Sunday 30th
August in splendid weather and with a capacity crowd.
There is no point in dwelling on the bitter war of
words (and numbers) which broke out when CalMac finally announced, on 2nd
December 1981, that MAID OF THE LOCH would not sail the following season.
Several weeks later, on 18th January 1982, she was officially offered
for sale – at an unspecified price. The available commercial options for a
land-locked paddlesteamer were, admittedly, somewhat limited; her commercial
value was put, by the informed, at but around £15,000 and MAID OF THE LOCH's
scrap value a mere £8,000. The PSPS naturally ran about like headless chickens
trying to talk up a rescue-bid; but, unlike WAVERLEY, MAID OF THE LOCH was never
going to sail around the British coastline drumming up trade and friends, and
the loss of PRINCE IVANHOE only a few months before had hit everyone hard.
Five firm bids were received and on 10th
March 1982 it was announced that a joint offer of £45,000 by Ind Coope Allow
Brewery Co. Ltd and Verigen Ltd. (owners of Loch Lomond Marina and two motor
launches, LOMOND DUCHESS and LOMOND PRINCESS) had been accepted. It later
emerged that, for another £20,000, CalMac agreed to throw in Balloch Pier and
its adjacent slipway. The buyers were then forced to shell out additional funds
to British Rail for a strip of land between Balloch Pier and the steamer
car-park; in all, they spent some £110,000.
Howls of cynicism greeted Ind Coope's confident
announcements of a new and glorious future. They hoped to have MAID OF THE LOCH
sailing again for the 1983 season – at least once a week, perhaps with diesel
or diesel-electric machinery. Yet this was scarcely a credible prospect
alongside the elaborate plans they also announced for a static role – MAID OF
THE LOCH's alternative function as a “leisure centre2, complete with
restaurant, bars, disco and family rooms. The suggestion that power, water and
sewerage might solemnly be disconnected once a week so the unplugged paddler
could churn about the loch was not taken seriously.
It caused little surprise when, on 2nd
April 1982, Alloa Brewery announced its purchase of the COUNTESS OF KEMPOCK –
formerly the COUNTESS OF BREADALBANE (1936), which the CSP had sold only in
1971. - and that this craft, refitted and renamed, would operate on Loch Lomond
for the 1982 season. Further details are given under her profile on this
website.
What befell MAID OF THE LOCH over the next decade
was the sort of unfolding horror her admirers could only watch through barely
parted fingers. She did not sail (though served, at least in the early seasons,
as a landing stage for COUNTESS FIONA.) She was not maintained. She was not even
watched. By 1988 COUNTESS FIONA was well established as a Loch Lomond concern;
but not the slightest progress had been made to restore MAID OF THE LOCH for
cruising, as a “leisure centre” or for anything else. Dirty, rusting,
vandalised and even looted, her appearance and condition were rapidly
deteriorating.
Desultory negotiations – Alloa Brewery were
thought to be quite happy to hand MAID OF THE LOCH over to some sort of publicly
funded charitable trust – ended when the company's Managing Director suddenly
died and, early in 1989, its entire Loch Lomond operation was put on the market.
It was duly sold – to an Australian company, which duly went bust; and then
sold again, in September 1990, to a Newcastle hotel company, which early in 1992
also went bust.
COUNTESS FIONA had not sailed since 25th
September 1989 and MAID OF THE LOCH was now in a deplorable state; some
scrapping had already started, all her valuable movables had unaccountably
vanished (including her wheel, her bell, her binnacle, her compass and her
builder's plate) and three to four feet of water swilled gaily round her hull,
causing a marked list to port. In March 1992, Dumbarton District Council agreed
to pay for site security and have the paddlesteamer pumped dry. A charmless
watchman was duly appointed; he was especially good at being rude to journalists
and kennelled his large German Shepherd in the MAID's old cocktail bar in the
after deck saloon. Most jealously it guarded its domain and, of course,
deposited filth everywhere.
Talks began with the Receiver and on 4th
December 1992 he formally accepted an offer of £55,000 from Dumbarton District
Council, who became due owners of MAID OF THE LOCH, COUNTESS FIONA, Balloch Pier
and the slipway. The Council bravely appealed for the return of assorted items
looted from the MAID and it is touching to note that several of them actually
were.
Exactly three years later the last Loch
Lomond paddlesteamer was transferred to the “Maid of the Loch Trust”, which
has since had entire charge of restoring the vessel and has still real hopes of
returning her to service. For reasons of legal and commercial advantage a new
company, the Loch Lomond Steamship Co. Ltd., was formed in 1996 to assume
responsibility for MAID OF THE LOCH. Directors include Colin Paterson, a past
and particularly distinguished manager of CalMac who had quite turned Company
fleet and fortunes around in the 1980s.
Meanwhile, work the work of restoration began, and
has been carried out largely by volunteers, with expert direction and
considerable help from companies offering their services gratis
or at cost. The first work parties boarded MAID OF THE LOCH in 1993; Dumbarton
District Council had been able to do little more than keep her afloat.
Consultants began a comprehensive assessment and happily, in December 1993,
confidently advised that full restoration was practicable.
The full story of MAID OF THE
LOCH's ongoing restoration is told in a well-illustrated 2003 booklet issued by
The Loch Lomond Steamship Co. Ltd. (Maid of the Loch: Loch Lomond's Paddle
Steamer). An initial clean-up in May 2003 was finished in time for her 40th
anniversary celebrations – volunteers filled four skips with garbage in two
weekends – and the vessel was then chipped and red-leaded.
She was painted in a new and
very attractive livery – black hull with red underbody; white superstructure
and upperworks; red funnel with, at last, a deep black top – and her original
wooden decking has been progressively replaced with metal plating. The saloons
were at last granted watertight protection, though wooden decking will be
overlaid to restore her original appearance for active service.
Dog-dirt and vegetation had to
be cleared from internal areas; a young tree was sorrowfully but firmly removed
from the cafeteria. Alongside this general clean-up, spraying, repainting,
reglazing, redecking and refurbishing, the MAID's boiler was in 1996 cut up and
removed, piece by piece. (It will be replaced by two new high-tech boilers when
funds become available and her engine has already been partially restored.)
A steel promenade deck was
laid in 1997 and in the spring of 2000 she won a grant of some £300,000 to
create new on-board catering facilities.. That summer saw the laying of an
aluminium top deck; Balloch Pier was rebuilt and a new car park created. In
December 2000, Canapés Catering Co. of Glasgow opened a splendid restaurant on
board; catering for private functions (from the corporate to cheerful Scottish
weddings) is now a good source of income, and food and refreshments are
available to the public throughout the summer and on winter weekends.
Her former saloon is now
serving as the Queen's Restaurant (in honour of Queen Salote and Queen Elizabeth
II) and can accommodate 120 people; happily, her original mahogany decking in
this area has survived and been beautifully restored. The old dining saloon has
now been carpeted and furnished and, equipped as a café-bar, holds sixty and
can be hired for smaller functions.
The after deck saloon was, by
1993, in a deplorable condition but by 2001 was handsomely restored as the
Douglas Mickel Saloon (the work sponsored by Mactaggart & Mickel, a Scottish
housebuilding concern.) Miss Jean Inglis – a scion of MAID OF THE LOCH's
builders – generously donated curtains for this lounge which is also up for
hire as a function-suite. The steamer's former observation saloon now serves as
an “interpretative centre”, in the clunking argot of our times, and houses
an attractive souvenir shop. This saloon's windows – and indeed many other
bits of MAID OF THE LOCH joinery – were removed and expertly restored at
Anniesland College, Glasgow, by students as part of a training scheme.
The MAID's foremast, however,
was discovered in 1994 to be dangerous and was duly removed; she is still
mastless, though two are likely to be restored for active service. To celebrate
her Jubilee in 2003 her appearance was further enhanced with the addition of a
gold line to her hull and clever use of black and gold paint to accent the sweep
of her paddlebox.
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